Just a quick note to the loyal readers: There's been a bit of a SNAFU getting our household goods to arrive on time at our new home destination, but that hasn't stopped us from procuring the best Interweb money can buy. Now that our bandwidth runneth over, I should be back with the reviews and features in no time (as soon as I get some new nosing glasses in the mail - I won't have furniture for 2 more weeks!). Thanks for hanging with me during the transition. Trust me when I say that we have some wicked sharp features in store >:-)
If only the U.N. would hold *that* kind of summit, but alas, it's another play on words. For those of you wanting to know what happened to the blog this week, the answer is that I've been mighty busy getting my family moved cross-country. And also doing this...
Mrs. Alchemywife and I hiked it this morning. You didn't think we'd scramble over those insufferable boulder fields without a dram to celebrate with, did you? Highland Park's 18 yo proved to be the perfect companion for the Northeast's highest summit and home of the world's worst weather.
It's time for the second in a line of fantastic, themed whiskey tastings! In the spirit of my Four Corners Tasting, the Pentagon tasting is tailored to be accessible to those with (1) a limited budget and (2) access to a decently-stocked liquor store (complete with recommendations for those who want to venture off the beaten path!). It would also make a kick-ass Independence Day tasting, just saying - wink wink, nudge nudge, saynomore. This is your chance to get a bit patriotic, explore great whiskey, and attain great zen and understanding in the process! As with every whiskey tasting, a little preparation goes a long way towards enhancing the experience.
What you will need ahead of time to accomplish this sort of tasting:
Your mission, should you choose to accept it.
While the purpose of the Four Corners tasting was to focus on the contribution of wood maturation to the flavor of the spirit, the Pentagon tasting is designed to home in on the contribution of grain. You see, all whiskey starts its life as a fermentable grain mash (called wort) anyway. [Ed. Where do you think "Cereal Alchemist" came from?] The wort is then fermented by adding yeast, which breaks down the sugars in the wort to create alcohol. That wash is subsequently heated to a point where the alcohol boils off and leaves the water behind, a process called a "first stage distillation." Many times the first stage distillate is called a "low wine" because it's still only about 18-20% alcohol. To create those high-proof beverages that we so thoroughly enjoy, most low wines get at least one more trip through the still. Eventually a very high proof new-make spirit is born and then laid down in barrels to age, usually for at least several years (U.S. law is 72 hours in order to be called a "whiskey"). The Pentagon tasting is a uniquely American whiskey tasting, so we're going to let age be a secondary consideration to the grain choices that go into each spirit.
Here in America we have like a bajillion grains - okay, so four major ones - to choose from when it comes to the "mashbills" (recipes) for our whiskies. Unsurprisingly, some distillers get pretty adventurous in terms of what percentages of which grains make up their unique, proprietary snake-oil (tongue-in-cheek, but it explains the enormous range of flavor profiles you'll find in singular genres like "Kentucky Straight Bourbon"). The Pentagon tasting is designed to assess each of those four grain building blocks, then examine what happens when they're blended together in different mashbills.
The Players and the Order
Forming the bottom four corners of our pentagon are the four dominant grains used by American whiskey distillers: corn, red winter wheat, malted barley, and rye. Expressions in these categories are selected to highlight each single grain on its own in order that those flavors can be picked out of blended expressions- such as bourbon - at the pinnacle of the tasting. The language can get confusing here for some ("Wait, so rye is whiskey?"; "I thought bourbon and corn whiskey were the same thing"). Be ready to field plenty of questions from newcomers who are suddenly intensely curious about what's going on in their glass; that's what we want to happen! For this tasting you get to be their guide to the spirit world.
The Grain Pillars
Balcones True Blue Corn Whiskey
Balcones is doing some really great stuff down in Texas and is responsible for what whiskey critics have recently dubbed the "judgment of London" (where Balcones' single malt beat out all the Scotches in a blind tasting). This distillery is lately held up as an icon of the "American moment", a renaissance of sorts that American whiskey is pioneering. All you need to know is that it's damned good, and probably the best expression of corn whiskey to be found in America at the moment. And you may as well start this tasting off in style! Be sure to add a bit of water for this one, as the ABV of True Blue (vs. Balcones Baby Blue) is rather monstrous at cask strength.
Corn serves as the foundation for a number of American whiskies, especially bourbon, but it's not unique to find it labeled as a "corn whiskey" on its own. To be called a corn whiskey the spirit has to be made from at least 80% corn in the mash bill. Balcones True Blue is made from 100% blue corn, which is somewhat unique, and it showcases the signature corn notes beautifully. To start, there's a deep, sugary sweetness here, with strong hints of orange and rich milk chocolate. There's also a subtle smokiness that probably comes from the wood. It's not the most complex whiskey I've ever tasted, but I challenge your tasters to say it isn't one of the most delicious. This is an important flavor to ruminate on for a while, since it's going to be featured heavily in every bourbon and even some "rye" blends.
[Interesting side observation: If you've noticed the price of corn whiskey (and bourbon) going up in recent years, you can thank the government for at least part of that (of course, there's also the occasion of blossoming demand and supply constraints). It seems that more and more farmers are willing to grow corn, but generally less of it is available to whiskey distillers. The reason? Ethanol subsidies. There's gold in them ears! This has a ripple effect in the agricultural industry, as grains like rye and barley don't receive the same subsidization. As a result, these grains are less preferred by farmers which makes them more expensive for distillers to procure. Call your congressman, but refrain from making your tasting too political unless everyone already agrees with you ;-) ]
Can't find Balcones anywhere? Out of your price range? That's okay, really. There are plenty of corn whiskies out there at the moment, so ask your local liquor retailer and I'm sure they can point you to some. Just don't buy "moonshine", usually clear or very pale corn whiskey. Remember, we're trying to showcase the corn's sugary sweetness. Moonshine is typically rougher stuff (hey, it's an experience, but your guests may not want to stay for the rest of the tasting after they've rinsed their mouth out). Corn whiskey done right is a beautiful thing. Look for a rich, amber hue.
Bernheim Small Batch Wheat Whiskey
Bernheim started off this particular small batch expression as an experiment, but it proved so delicious that they just keep bottling it. To be called a "straight wheat whiskey" by law you have to use at least 51% wheat in the mashbill. Bernheim uses red winter wheat (wheat with a higher protein content) for their 51+%, which results in a very light, sweet, recognizable flavor for bourbon drinkers. If there are bourbon fans in the room you're probably going to to hear "this tastes like Maker's Mark!" Actually, technically, Maker's Mark tastes like Bernheim's. That's because Maker's uses a minority percentage of red winter wheat in its mashbill (instead of rye, like most bourbons) to mellow out the flavor of its bourbon. For that reason, Maker's is often used as an introductory whiskey, something most palates will accept as "smooth" and drinkable. Bernheim takes that idea to its fullest expression, giving the wheat center stage. It's quite a departure from the corn whiskey, seeing that syrupy sweetness replaced with demerara sugar and spice. Add just a tiny bit of water.
But my local liquor store has never heard of Bernheim! What do I do?? My Pentagon is becoming a square-ish thing indeed! Don't fret! Instead, simply substitute one of the items from the pinnacle of this tasting in its place - specifically, Maker's 46. It's not 100% wheat by any stretch of the imagination, but its highly-wheated mashbill will allow your guests to instantly identify the departure from the 100% corn whiskey that they just tasted.
Uprising 1765 Collection (Sons of Liberty Spirits Co.)
I'm not going to lie - it's hard to find American single malt whiskey in stores. With the dawn of the craft brewer and distiller movement your chances are getting better and better, but this will be the hardest "corner" of your tasting to procure. Most liquor stores will tell you that single malts (made from 100% malted barley) are largely the province of Scotland, and they'd be right. Still, there are plenty of American distillers who are stepping up to the plate (including, actually, a smashing offering from Balcones... which is usually sold out).
If you read the latest edition of Friday's Finest, you probably noticed the treasure map at the bottom of the post. Many of those distillers produce small batch or limited release single malts that you can find in pockets of local resellers. I also offer a fall-back option for those burnt-out on searching below. But here we come to praise malted barley! I chose Sons of Liberty Spirits Company (a local craft distiller in Rhode Island) and their 1765 Collection for the job.
Barley is widely considered to be one of the most "neutral" fermented grains, but that doesn't mean there isn't going to be flavor involved. For starters, all malted barley wort is essentially fermented into beer before it's distilled. So you can have "stout beer" whiskies (made from certain percentages of "chocolate" - i.e. "toasted" - malt) like what Sons of Liberty has produced that contain rich, malty chocolate tones. You can also have exceptionally light whiskies from 100% malted barley. Then there's the difference that aging in wood makes for all of these neutral spirits, which is something the Four Corners tasting addresses head on.
Any single malt you choose is going to be a definitive departure from the corn and wheat we've tasted so far. Most single malts are not by the grain's nature alone "sweet", but they are quite delicate. Have your tasters enjoy this one as an outlier, and encourage them to go distillery-hopping sometime in search of great malts. My gut tells me that America has just begun to take up its own single malt movement with the passion that it deserves.
The idiot behind the counter at my local store thinks all single malts come from Scotland. If I don't have time to order online, what do I do? We're outsourcing this particular dilemma to Scotland - go with a Scotch and explain that the mash bill (100% malted barley) is essentially the same. Just don't pick a peat monster (most Islay whiskies) or something heavily sherried, since neither define American single malts at the moment. I'd recommend a highland or Speyside malt to make your flavor point: Glenmorangie's Original or Glenlivet's Nadurra (or hell, even their 12yo in a pinch) will get you through.
Bulleit 95 Rye
If there's a comeback whiskey of the decade it's rye. Made famous by shows like Mad Men and scores of Don Draper hook-up wannabees, rye has been added to most distillers' portfolios as a matter of sheer economic desperation. It's also becoming extremely popular in some very nostalgic whiskey cocktails. Rumors have it that Bulleit saw a 200% increase in demand within 2 years of releasing their straight 95% rye mash whiskey.
This is not a 100% rye whiskey. I chose Bulleit because it's truly best in class, but you'll notice that it's actually "only" 95% rye in the mashbill. To be called a "rye whiskey" you have to use - you guessed it - at least 51% rye in the mashbill. I don't hold that 5% barley in Bulleit's mashbill against them, as I think it's used here to tone down some of that rye spice a bit and allow the heathery honey notes to really flourish. And flourish they do! Hooray! Just such a perfect expression of an American rye whiskey. Your tasters will pick up on the spice though. That is rye's signature contribution, and it's cherished by many full-bodied bourbons for that very reason. Add just splash of water to open up those heathery notes.
Can't I pick just about any "Straight Rye Whiskey" off the shelf and have that serve as the rye corner of my Pentagon instead? Yes. What about rye from craft distillers like Hudson's Manhattan Rye? Do you have a problem with me picking that one so that I can relay the interesting story of "rapturation"? Not in the least ;-)
The Pentagon's Apex
Maker's 46 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Up until now we've been laying down the bottom four corners of our Pentagon tasting so that we can understand what lies at the apex. Now we've arrived, and here we start to explore what happens when we combine these individual grains into a blended mashbill.
All you anti-establishment types are about to jump ship now that I've recommended a Maker's Mark whiskey on what is turning out to be a legendary and elite whiskey tasting. That's your loss. Because Maker's 46 is an exceptional bourbon on its own, and really stands out as the king of "wheated" bourbons. I chose the 46 over their original expression, largely because of the higher ABV (46%, which almost always means more complexity) and also because I like what the French oak staves have accomplished with the color and flavor profile. This bourbon (at least 51% corn in the mashbill) , but you could easily substitute the original here for pricing or availability and accomplish the same goal. With the 46 I'd add just a bit of water to open it up some.
Have your tasters begin with the corn influence here - a syrupy sweetness that pervades the palate. If you need to have them go back to the individual grain whiskies to figure it out that's totally okay; trust me, they'll get it. Then have them dive deep for that 20% red winter wheat in this expression. It's there, but its sweetness is masked a bit by the sharpness of the French oak. If anything, you want your tasters to see that this is a subdued, complex corn whiskey. Because that's what it is :-) Odds are it'll be a crowd favorite up to this point.
On NO! I already poured this drink earlier as the wheat corner of my Pentagon! Is my tasting a complete sham? Relax. You can either pour it again just for kicks, or head straight on to the next part. That Four Roses coming up is amazing, full-bodied stuff and will make a great pinnacle on its own. And we haven't even talked about the sneaky, surprise offering that you're going to unveil at the very end yet! >:-)
Four Roses Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey - Private Selection
I'll admit it, I'm a fan of ABV. I'm also a fan of Four Roses' latest private edition single barrel release. Don't get me wrong, this year's single barrel is also OBSK (a mashbill recipe that's full-bodied and spicy) but that private edition gets you the OBSK at cask strength, which is just phenomenal, even if it's hard to find. You will want to add water to this one, as that 60+% ABV is nothing to laugh at.
Four Roses is a definitive "high rye" bourbon. This means that while corn makes up the lion's share of the mashbill, rye gets (pretty much) the rest. When you taste a bourbon and you get that strong spice sensation at the tip of the tongue, you know it's using rye in the balance. To that end, OBSK lives up to its recipe quite well, exhibiting a powerful corn sweetness on palate entry, followed by an interesting hit of dark berry jams, and finishing medium spicy. I prefer the medium spicy to some bourbons' powerful spice assault, but that's just me. Certainly a departure from Maker's 46, even if corn is still the dominant ingredient. And this is still "Kentucky Straight Bourbon"! Together with Maker's it's the perfect apex to our pentagon.
Oh, but I already have a favorite bourbon! No, really, it's just super great stuff and so, so good and just really, truly delicious, trust me. I really want to make that my pinnacle instead. Pleeeease! Well, go ahead! This is really your tasting after all. I'm just a blogger. However, I think you should try to pick something that's high-rye in the mash bill (most bourbons, admittedly) just to put a blended mash bill with a contrast to Maker's on display. Go with your gut. And if you're thinking Blanton's, I'd also totally agree with you. Tennessee whiskey... maybe.
So, it looks like this has been a really successful---
Admit it, you love when you get to surprise people. And the finale surprise is the hallmark of any Cereal Alchemist tasting. Here I've featured Angels' Envy (a bourbon matured in port pipes) and Balcones Brimstone (a Texas scrub oak - a.k.a. mesquite - smoked corn whiskey) as possible options for you to break out, but I leave the choice up to you. I'll just say it's worth it for the smiles and the memories. 'Tis better to give than to receive.
In a recent tasting with family friends I pulled the (now exceptionally hard to find) Brimstone out at the end as a surprise pour. The reaction as it was entering the glass was one of "hmmmm, that's an interesting smell." The reaction upon nosing and tasting was, "Holy cow! Can we eat some ribs now?!" It's just that different, basically like drinking sweet, mesquite BBQ in a glass. There is no other whiskey in the world like it. I freakin' love it, as much for the novelty as anything else.
If you go for the Angel's Envy option, your guests can expect a high-rye, full-bodied bourbon with none of the spice kick. Instead, it's delicious, dark fruit soaked in rum all the way down. Truly an exceptional take on what the bourbon flavor profile can accomplish, and one that will leave your friends asking, "Why don't more distilleries extra-mature their bourbon?" I have no freakin' idea. But this one does, and that's enough for me.
That's it for this American whiskey tasting! We've covered wood maturation and grain influence, so where do we go from here? Is this all there is?
Regarding that, I'll leave you with a teaser: Did you know that the word "Samurai" means "to serve"?
A couple of nights ago I was privileged to attend an Ardbeg Committee launch event in Westborough, MA, celebrating the arrival of Ardbeg's latest, rare committee release - Ardbog! The launch is coincidentally timed quite well with the arrival of Ardbeg Day on June 1st (today!), with rolling launch celebrations being held all over the world the week prior. The May 29th event I attended was expertly hosted by Julio's Liquors, with a raffle of Ardbeg Supernova (a bottle signed by Dr. Bill Lumsden and David Blackmore!) and great food and drink all around. There was even an "Ardbog Sushi Roll" designed to pair flavortastically with the new whisky, but they ran out before I could try some.
As with any major whisky tasting event there was great SWAG, such as signature green Ardbeg tasting glasses, Ardbog Day tees, and assorted memorabilia, but the reason we were all there was to get our first glimpse (and taste) of Ardbog itself and maybe buy a bottle or two. While I've finally penned my tasting notes for Ardbog over in the reviews section, I thought I'd share a few other observations from the evening here.
I had a chance to speak with Ardbeg and Glenmorangie Global Ambassador Mr. David Blackmore at length after the new drink had been introduced and all the hubbub died down. I first met David Blackmore at a Glenmorangie Master Class at Whisky Live NYC (where I talked him into a bit of a blind tasting), but I'll never turn down an opportunity to get the "inside scoop" on what's happening in my favorite distilleries. It was - in a word - sublime to enjoy a dram of the delicious Ardbog while generally "shootin' the shit" with one of the most fun-loving personalities in the whisky biz.
Here's a summary of what I could get on the record:
While critical reception of Ardbog (which has already been in some tasters' hands since mid-week) has been generally quite positive, Mr. Blackmore was understandably tepid about pronouncing Ardbog to be anything "revolutionary" while simultaneously confident that it was quite excellent stuff. True 'nuff. I think much of the "sigh" reaction that you tend to hear amongst industry insiders is just weariness at the annual Ardbeg hype cycle itself, rather than the whisky. Also, there seems to be a weariness about sherry maturation setting in around some corners, with many renowned and respected tasters and bloggers swearing that ex-bourbon is just "where it's all at" right now. I think any judgment of Ardbog needs to be free of preconceived prejudices. In fact, if you've read my review, you'll see that I rate Ardbog easily above the Ardbeg Day and Galileo expressions, going so far as to say that it may turn out to be my favorite Ardbeg release yet - and that includes the Corryvreckan!
Why "Ardbog", given that this expression is actually none too monstrous on the phenol front?
"Well, I think it's a lot like the Uigeadail in some respects, while being 'dirtier' - a bit earthy. We don't take ourselves too seriously here," David said. The host at Julio's Liquors even joked about one of my recent "criticisms" of the Glenmorangie Master Class, where it seemed Mr. Blackmore was there to let us have our stab at what we thought we tasted, while telling us definitively what we were supposed to taste. If there's one thing I appreciate about whisky fans it's that everyone is a critic.
Glenmorangie's Cask Masters Project
If you haven't heard about Glenmorangie's Cask Masters Project, it's an industry first (as far as I can tell) attempt at crowd-sourcing extra maturation. Glenmorangie periodically releases private edition whiskies that showcase their mastery of ACE'ing (Additional Cask Enhancement). The Artein, for example, was extra matured in Super Tuscan wine casks. What the Cask Masters Project aims to do is give the public control of what cask to mature the next private edition in. Your choices: ex-Burgundy, ex-Bordeaux, and ex-Manzanilla.
I've said before that I tasted all three expressions at Whisky Live NYC, and I definitely preferred the Bordeaux above the other choices. I thought the Burgundy was too much at war in the glass and the Manzanilla was not enough of a departure from the signature, light Glenmo character. I was disappointed then to hear from Mr. Blackmore that the Manzanilla is currently in the lead among Cask Masters voters. I have my own suspicions as to why this could be so, starting with the fact that few of the voters have probably actually tasted the variations, having instead learned about them by tasting note videos on the Cask Masters website. The drawbacks here are obvious, like telling a Master Blender that he can't rely on the valinch and must instead go on what a stranger is going to text him about his casks. Please, please, voters, don't screw this up.
The other thing I discovered was that the Cask Masters Project is - for the moment - delayed. Mr. Blackmore didn't offer too many specifics as to why, aside from a bit of bureaucratic maneuvering in the UK and USA governments. However, I suspect it could just as easily be a master blender who thinks that many of the casks just aren't ready. After all, this isn't an exact science, and nobody's going to release a whisky for Glenmorangie - pioneer of ACE'ing extraordinaire - until it's perfect. Overall, while Glenmorangie is committed to this grand experiment, it sounds like there won't be another private edition until 2015 unless something changes. Still, with private editions like Astar and Ealanta still selling out there, I think I can entertain myself another two years just fine :-)